La Mitad del Mundo

Well, where to start. I have reached La Mitad del Mundo (the centre of the earth)!!

Disembarking the plane in Quito is a strange experience. The first thing you read is a sign warning you to walk slowly due to the altitude of the city. I was collected at the airport by Winston, an Ecuadorian guide working for the excellent Cafe Cutlura, a nice colonial style hotel in central Quito. Winston provided a second warning of the effects of the altitude and told me to drink plenty of water to avoid fatigue and the onset of strange dreams. He handed me said water which upon opening proceded to spray all over me...another effect of the altitude and a good trick to play on the visitor!

Reaching the hotel I was really glad of a good nights rest and a chance to recover after the 7 hour flight from Santiago (South America is a big place!).

Next day (friday) I took it pretty easy, catching up on emails and taking a stroll around Quito new town. The city has a strange atmosphere, due partly to the slightly opressive effect of the altitude and the frequency of armed guards and police on pretty much every street corner and shop doorway. Speaking to the locals it is apparent that Quito is not the safest of towns to walk around, with several areas that should be avoided at all costs. Furthermore, venturing onto the streets after dark is a no-no with taxi rides to restauarants and bars a must for travellers. This change in atmosphere from the relatively safe environment experienced in Chile gave an indication of the diversity of the continent and a warning that the trappings of the west (cameras, phones and cash) are pretty easy pickings for those without and with intention.

Saturday saw my full recovery from the flight and effect of the elevation. I decided it safest and most time-economical to book a one-to-one tour with the aforementioned Wilson, an individual it turns has a google-like knowledge of Ecuador. He had a full day planned so picked me up from the Cafe at 9 and we headed immediately to Quito old town, a stark contrast to the new town with fabulous colonial buildings, elaborte catholic churches and large collections of art. First stop was the imposing Basilica del Voto Nacional (cathedral). A faulty lift gave an opportunity to climb the large numbers of steps, spiral staircases and ladders that led to the top spire. Without the strangle hold of health and safety, we did not see another person on the way to the top...the journey becoming ever more fragile as we reached the top. The climb reminded me of our high altitude and some heavy breathing followed before recovery to take the photos...pretty spectacular views of the old and new town are visible, including a view across to the Virgin of Quito.

View of Quito old town from Cathedral

Dropping back down the tower and into the old town, we took a look around the original central church and political centre of Quito, the Iglesia y Monasterio de San Francisco and the adjacent Museo de San Francisco. These extravagant buildings along with the Cathedral Primada, with their almost complete internal coverage with gold leaf indicate the importance of the Catholic faith to Ecuadorian inhabitants and the considerable influence of the church on daily life in Quito now and through time (other religions were not allowed into Ecuador before the mid 1970's).

Wilson thought it a good idea that we have lunch before heading up the Volcano Pichincha that overlooks the city. Wanting to try the local dish of 'gratita' without really knowing what it was, Wilson delighted in telling me (during my first chewy mouthfull) that the chowder-looking broth was actually a soup of cows intestine....a delicacy in this part of Ecuador. Not wishing to let the side down, I chewed my way through the rest of the soup....pretty different.



I took a break from chewing the ileum to take this shot for you

So, after a satisfying lunch we moved on to Volcan Pichincha, standing at 4,794m above sea level (and 2000 m above Quito itself), it is reached by a cable car that passes through a rapidly changing array of mountain flora and fauna before dropping passengers at a visitor centre just under the peak and crater. Unfortuntely, heavy rain prevented us from making it to the peak but the cable ride gave a great view of the city. The effects of the altitude were taken away by a refreshing cup of cocoa leaf tea, a well-known remedy for altitude sickness due to the rather 'dubious' content of the cocoa leaf. As a nation of tea drinkers, I would love to have brought some back to the UK but as Wilson pointed out, '...the dogs will find it in customs'!!!! I decided that 15 years in the Quito Hilton was not worth it so left the inviting tea bag packets in the mountain shop!!

Final stop of the day was to the centre of the world (Le Mitad del Mundo), about half an hour from Quito, this is the place that you can watch water go down the plughole without spinning in either a clockwise or anti-clockwise direction (lack of Coreolis effect at the equator) and can stand on the very central line of the earth. Pretty amazing that this site was designated a few hundred years back (and probably way before by original inhabitants of Ecuador) before the aid of modern GPS etc (although original predictions were about 250m away from that depicted with new technologies). Apparently your body weight is 1kg less at the central point...the scales suggested this may be the case, though effects of eating the strange foods of Ecuador may also have led to this effect in me!!



This is how the equator looks...well what were you expecting?!

One strange display at the on-site museum was a guide to how to produce a shrunken head should you wish to create a trophy of war. I have some pretty gruesome pictures of the process and a close-up of finished article (they had one...apparently the deceased son of a tribal chief from the region) that are slightly too unsavoury to be posted here but will show those with an interest in this ancient craft on my return!

Speaking of unsavoury, Wilson suggested that we stop off for some more 'traditional' food on the way home to Quito. From my earlier enthusiam for gratita, he was keen for me to experience the 'true taste' of rural Ecuador and proceded to order 'Cuyes', a dish that would take about an hour to prepare (catch, dispatch, marinate and barbecue)...we should come back said the roadside chef (British roadside service stations were never like this!!!).

On our return, we were greeted with a Cuyes being barbecued on a skewer over an open fire. Closer inspection confirmed my suspicion that Cuyes was in fact a Guinea pig...sorry Alison. Proud of their delicacy, the animal was served whole, spatchcock-style with 'Chicha', the local moonshine of unknown alcholic content, made from fermented corn. I was scared!! A quick trip to the Loo to steady the nerves, then to action...

As a guest, I was obviously offered the 'best' bits which I proceded to chew with great trpidation and a growing realisation that I was eating a rodent! Actually the skin and meat tasted ok (yes, it does taste like chicken!) but I drew the line at the head and internal organs. Wilson proceded with gusto, suprised by my lack of enthusiasm for these prime offerings. I have never needed a drink so much and was glad of the numbing effects of the Chicha. I was glad to see the thing finished. I wasn't going to include this image but Pip thought it important to let you see the real Ecuador. So just for her:



Sunday lunch...Ecuador style. Now who's for leg?

All in all, a strange and surreal introduction to Quito, a city with many faces. Wilson was an excellent guide and really took his time to explain the importance of the city in Ecuador's colourful history. The food was strange but real and I was glad to have the opportunity to try. The safety issues for a tourist in the city were amply highlighted and I would suggest that anybody planning a trip here makes use of the guides. I am off to Guayaquil today and am gonna get my shorts out since it's going to be hot. See you there!

Don't have nightmares!!